To Flavor or Not To Flavor?

When I founded Tea Geek, one of the main ideas (beyond providing accurate, well-researched information with citations) was that I’d never carry a flavored/scented tea, and I’d never carry blended teas.  From what I’ve tasted, flavored teas typically scrape the bottom of the barrel when it comes to the tea base used, since the flavoring covers the taste of the tea.  And besides, if I’m going to drink tea, I want to taste tea.  If I want to taste Berry-Guava-Colada-Explosion or whatever, I’ll go get some fruit juice or soda or something.

However, I’m beginning to question part of that decision.

I still like the idea of no flavored/scented teas and want to stick to that for the most part.  However, two teas stick out as possible exceptions–both for economic and historic reasons.  These teas are jasmine green and Earl Grey.

Jasmine green tea is probably the oldest and most popular scented tea in the world.  It’s been made using different techniques over the years, but the combination of jasmine flowers and green tea is certainly old enough to call “traditional” (unlike some of the awful concoctions that pass for “tea” on grocery store shelves and tea shop jars).

Earl Grey, though not nearly as old as jasmine green, is certainly the oldest flavored tea of the European tradition.  And it’s still the most popular.  For Heaven’s sake, Jean Luc Picard of Star Trek fame drinks it–it can’t be that bad, right?

Well, in short, yes it can.  However, I’ve found an Earl Grey that balances the bergamot flavor with the tea itself.  Yes, you can actually taste the tea in it.  I have a couple of candidates (though no clear winner) on the jasmine green front.

What do you think?  Should I carry a jasmine and an Earl Grey?  They are certainly more popular than, say, a single-estate first flush Darjeeling or a winter harvest Alishan wulong.  But not nearly as geeky.  Would carrying these two mean Tea Geek was making a shrewd business move, or just selling out?  Give me some feedback–I’d like to hear what my readers and customers think!

Cyclone Aila and Weird Priorities

The eye of Cyclone Aila before making landfall near Kolkata
The eye of Cyclone Aila before making landfall near Kolkata

On the 25th of May, 2009, a cyclone (or tropical storm, depending on where/when you’re talking about) made landfall more or less over Kolkata (formerly Calcutta).  From there it headed north, pounding Myanmar, Bangladesh, and India’s West Bengal state.   Various world news outlets report confirmed deaths from as few as 100 up to 231 or 300.  Thousands of people were missing.  Injuries, both directly from the storm and its damage, and amongst rescuers, is 6,000 or higher.  It’s estimated that over 5 million people are affected by the storm.  “Nijhum Dwip, a low-lying coastal island with 25,000 residents, was reportedly submerged.” (New York Times)

In addition to the human cost, the Sundarbans were hit hard as well.  The Sundarbans are the largest mangrove forest in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and habitat to hundreds of threatened Bengal tigers–perhaps as much as 25% of all Bengal tigers in existence.  It is feared that the storm surge may have polluted with salt water many of the sources of tigers’ fresh drinking water.

Cyclone Aila came very early before the monsoons, the first May storm of its size since 1989.  Aila was the 5th wettest tropical cyclone on record in India.  It saturated soil that is expected to receive another 118 inches of rain when the monsoons hit.  Aila alone caused as many as 40 landslides (with one source claiming nearly 100) in and around the town of Darjeeling, one of the most famous tea growing regions in the world.

Looking at maps from May and June ’09 posts on this India-local blog show several Darjeeling tea estates that were extremely close to or directly affected by these landslides.  Estates mentioned in the slide maps include Happy Valley Tea Estate, Singell Tea Estate, and Long View Tea Estate.  I haven’t yet found any information on whether any of the 26 deaths in Darjeeling are owners or employees of these (or other) tea estates.  According to Wikipedia’s article on the storm, at least 50,000 hectares (over 120,000 acres) of agricultural land was lost during the storm.

But here’s where the weird priorities come in.  The New York Times article linked above is the only mention I found in American media.  In the tea industry, it wasn’t until this last week that I heard anything about the storm.  And then, it was in the form of various people trying to raise money to help the Makaibari Tea Estate recover. Then I started looking and found an article by the World Tea News about the cyclone–again asking for aid, talking about the damage sustained by the Makaibari Tea Estate, and how they’re getting aid for recovery.

Makaibari?  Don’t get me wrong, it’s dreadful that they’ve lost workers’ homes, have a damaged factory, and lost 12 of their 1,509 acres of land.  I am especially fond of their second flush teas.  I hope that they heal the traumas of the event and have a speedy recovery of property and livelihoods.

But the tea industry (at least in English, as far as I can tell) is only talking about one farm?  Didn’t it occur to anyone that the cyclone may have damaged nearby farms?  Was it just that Makaibari’s CEO Rajah Banerjee sent out a dramatic press release about their plight that caused everyone to forget the other 86 Darjeeling tea plantations?  I would think that the folks at the World Tea News would have contacts at other Darjeeling estates and might contact them as sources for their story.  I’d think people would be raising money for the whole region, not just one farm.

I’ll try to see what else I can find about non-Makaibari tea estates and how they are doing and if I find something I’ll update this article.  In the mean time, check out this satellite image of Cyclone Aila to get a sense of how big the storm was.

Thanks go out to meteorologist Chris Warren of Seattle’s KING5 News for helping me figure out some weather data about the cyclone.

Don’t Make Sun Tea (plus a reward for a skilled reader!)

Here’s why:  Sun tea gets warm but not hot.  When you brew tea with hot water, any microorganisms in the water or on the leaves are pretty much killed.  But with sun tea, you give them a nice warm bath in which they could reproduce.  Usually, no big colonies form, and if they do it’s typically of benign organisms like Alcaligenes viscolactis and nobody gets hurt.  Well, except for the li’l buggers once you drink ’em.  (Update:  While it’s not about sun tea specifically, Griffin Kelton tells a tea horror story that’s basically the same issue.)

Another reason not to make sun tea is because lots of the flavor that comes out of a tea leaf requires higher temperatures to make it into solution.  Making sun tea, then, is to leave behind many of the flavors of the tea you’ve chosen.

Cold vs. Hot brewing of Dong Fang Mei RenSome like the flavor of sun tea for exactly that reason–it’s more mild than tea made the usual way.  If that’s the case, make your tea using a cold-brewing process.  Put the leaves in water and put it in the fridge overnight.  Too cold for most microbes to flourish, but the added time allows for a similar milder tea flavor even at the lower temperature.  Update:  The image I’ve added shows the same tea, Dong Fang Mei Ren (aka Bai Hao Wulong, or Oriental Beauty).  The cup on the left was brewed overnight in the fridge, while the cup on the right was brewed hot to ISO standards.

Now, I’ve heard that the US Centers for Disease Control have made some statement to this effect–that it’s best not to make sun tea because of the bacteria issue.  However, I’ve never been able to find anything directly from the CDC about it.  It’s been reported in several small-town newspapers, which gives some credence to the idea that the CDC frowns on iced tea, but I want to hear it from the horse’s mouth, so to speak.

So, if you can get me the official CDC statement/position on sun tea, I’ll give you a $15 credit in the Tea Geek store.

Rules:  I have to be able to verify that what I get is really from the CDC.  If I get several “correct” ones, the winner is the one I received first.  Pretty much any format I can see is acceptable: link to official press release on the CDC website, scanned image of an official statement, video of a CDC official making an announcement at a press conference, whatever.

Back in the Saddle

I didn’t realize how long it had been since my last blog post. It’s not like I haven’t been working. Since then Tea Geek has launched Tea Geek Memberships and done updates on the wiki (which, by the way, is now mostly members-only).  Updated articles over the last 30 days include:

  • Bai Mudan
  • Yunnan (black tea)
  • Caffeine in Tea
  • Bailin Gongfu
  • Jin Hou
  • Yu Quansun
  • Opium and Tea
  • Glenburn Tea Estate
  • Darjeeling
  • Buddha Hand
  • Dragonwell
  • Pirates and Tea
  • Tea Timeline
  • Minbei
  • Tie Guan Yin
  • Buddhism and Tea
  • Daoism and Tea
  • East India Company
  • Tea Quotations
  • Yan Cha
  • Varietals and Cultivars
  • Shen Nong
  • List of wulong teas
  • Buddhist Tea
  • Assam
  • Sencha

Quite  a few photos of tea exemplars have been uploaded, including a gallery of photos of different grades of pre-Qingming Dragonwell from this spring (gotta use the new camera for something, after all).

New technical books have been procured, with more on the way.  There’s been a trip to Vancouver, BC, Canada where I did some tea and teaware research (though the trip was mostly for pleasure).

I also have a list of blog posts to write…it’s just a matter of sitting down and writing them.

By the way, if you want shorter-but-more-frequent tea related updates, you can follow me on Twitter (@michaeljcoffey).  Oor become a fan at the Tea Geek group on Facebook for less frequent updates.

Off to the 2009 World Tea Expo

Well, official word (in the form of plane and hotel reservations) came in a few days ago that I’m going to the World Tea Expo in Las Vegas this weekend. Actually, I leave tomorrow. If you’re there, I’ll be in booth 525. If I can, I’ll post comments and so forth from there. If not, you won’t see another post until probably mid-May after I come back and have a chance to catch up with stuff. In the mean time, enjoy some tea!

Teabagging and The Boston Tea Party

Originally, I had been planning on writing a series of posts about the Boston Tea Party to launch on the anniversary of the event this December.  However, some folks I don’t much agree with in politics have launched an anti-tax campaign today that begged for a response.  Since I could tie it in with tea, well, why not?

The basic idea of their protest is that they will send teabags to their elected representatives if the representative doesn’t change tax policy in a way they’d like.  They are calling this act of protest teabagging.  Now, it seems they are unaware that this is a slang term for a particular sexual practice (FYI: this link goes to the Wikipedia article defining the behavior in question).

To make the strangeness of the whole supposedly grassroots “movement” (urged on by folks at FOX News) even greater, one of the leaders of this movement was involved in a sex scandal not too long ago.  And, it is being promoted most by the sort of ultraconservative folks who might be likely to protest the very behavior that might be confused with the name of the protest they’re promoting.  All very odd, and (in my opinion) handled perfectly in this humorous, if slanted, MSNBC story .

The weirdest thing, however, is what is being protested and the imagery they’re using to do it.  It’s a protest, on April 15th, of US tax policy.  Apparently, tea was chosen as the medium to evoke images of the Boston Tea Party (and not, one supposes, sexual activity).  However, even though it’s one of the big events that everyone who goes through public school, most people don’t really have an accurate idea of what really went on then.  That’s what this series is going to be about.

No Taxation Without Representation

If you ask most people about the Boston Tea Party, after they talk about the iconic image of colonists dressed as Mohawks throwing tea off the ship, the next thing they’re likely to say is “no taxation without representation.”  But what does that actually mean?  The issue wasnt, as is commonly thought, that the colonists were annoyed that they didn’t have a say in Parliament back in England.  It was actually more nuanced than that.

In the minutes of the “Council of Boston” of November 29th, 1773, a unanimous acceptance of a committee report read, in part:

Previous to the consideration of the petition before the Board, they would make a few observations occasioned by the subject of it.  The situation of things between Great Britain and the Colonies has been for some years past very unhappy.  Parliament, on the one hand, has been taxing the Colonies, and they, on the other hand, have been petitioning and remonstrating against it, apprehending they have constitutionally an exclusive right of taxing themselves, and that without such a right, their condition would be but little better than slavery.”  (Source–Tea Leaves: Being a Collection of Letters and Documents Relating to the Shipment of Tea to the American Colonies in the Year 1773, by the East India Tea Company.  1884.  A. O. Crane)

The question, then, wasn’t whether or not the colonists had a voice in London’s Parliament, but rather that they had a conflict with the constitutionality of the tax.  The colonists believed, under their colonies’ charters, that it was their exclusive right to tax themselves.  They had political structures in place for making these kinds of decisions, and had been using this system for years.  The tax in question, imposed from London, applied exclusively to the American colonies–no other location across the British empire had to pay it, thus it seemed to fall within the power of the colonial deliberative assemblies.

The imposition of a tax from London undermined the idea that their political system had any power at all.   In a letter from Thomas Warton of Philadelphia to Thomas Walpole of London on 30 October, 1773, the danger was stated this way:

I may say with great truth, that I do not believe one man in a hundred was to be met with who approved of the sending the tea, while the duty was to be paid here.  Yet a great number of people acknowledged the right of the East India Directors to export their teas to America, and declared that nothing less than a confirmed belief that the admitting this mode of taxation would render the assemblies of the people mere cyphers [meaning “a person or thing of no importance”], could have induced them to proceed in the manner they have done…

(In addition to the issue of the tax rendering “the assemblies of the people mere cyphers,” they felt that an easy solution would be had by opposing the tax.  The Act of Parliament prevented the East India Company from unloading the ships until the tax was paid, and the directors of the company knew that the American colonists were boycotting (and/or smuggling) tea.  The colonists assumed, therefore, that the directors wouldn’t send any tea until the tax issue was resolved.  When the company did send the tea after all, the colonists had to come up with other means to prevent the gutting of their political system.  More on those attempts in later parts of this series.)

Although “no taxation without representation” is a catchy slogan even after almost 236 years, it would have been more accurate to say something like “no taxation from political bodies without the proper constitutional jurisdiction.”  In modern times, it would be something like if the US Congress were to pass a law requiring reisdents of Seattle, and only Seattle, to pay a city-level tax directly to the Federal government, every time they bought a cup of coffee.  It’d seem just plain weird, and you wouldn’t really blame the city council from getting a little uppity about it.

That’s basically what happened in Boston, Philadelphia, New York, and other major cities throughout the colonies.

And to conclude this part while pulling it back to today’s protests, it does seem plain weird to use a situation where elected officials were having their power undermined from an “outside” power as the symbol for protesting how duly elected officals are representing their constituents.  But that’s just me.

I think you should get involved, though:  buy some good tea, invite some friends over to drink it with you, and discuss real political issues.

Tea(ish) Book Recommendation: Three Cups of Tea

It’s been a couple of weeks since I finished reading Greg Mortinson’s book, Three Cups of Tea. While the book isn’t really about tea (it’s about the author’s quest to build schools in rural areas of central Asia), the title does come from a concept that most tea people can get behind. It is that the first cup of tea you share is an introduction. The second cup is for friendship. After the third cup, you’re family.

It is an inspiring book, and even if you don’t read the book, you can support education (especially for girls) in these unbelievably remote regions simply by going to the website for the book, where there is a page linking to both Amazon.com and Indiebound.org.  Clicking on either and then purchasing a book will result in a portion of your purchase going towards building more schools.

Though it’s not specifically about tea in a Tea Geek kind of way, how can I not give a plug for a guy who does business over tea (and his business has a real chance of bringing about more stability and peace in a sometimes very violent area of the world), and who supports education?

More Reasons to Buy GOOD Tea

As you may know, tea contains theanine, an amino acid found almost exclusively in tea. It is made up of two “mirror” molecules (enantiomers). L-theanine has been associated with all kinds of good stuff like relaxing the mind, lowering blood pressure, and some anti-tumor effects. D-theanine has not. According to Tea: Bioactivity and Therapeutic Potential edited by Yong-su Zhen, D-theanine is usually only on average 1.85% of the total theanine content in tea, but storage at warmer temperatures leaves seem to increase this ratio, and that the “…relative amounts of D-theanine display inverse correlation to tea quality.” The higher quality tea, then, the less D-theanine, which means more L-theanine, which is the one that has the good health benefits.

The book also mentions some interesting information about caffeine in the same section. They cite a source showing a difference between teabag tea and loose leaf tea, as well as steeping time. At 2 minutes of steeping, a cup of teabag tea had about 48 mg of caffeine and loose leaf had about 38 mg. At 5 minutes the teabag was at 80 mg while the loose leaf was 60 mg.

So drink high-quality tea from a place that avoids storage at warmer temperatures, as it seems to be more healthful. And if you’re concerned about caffeine intake, drink loose leaf tea brewed quickly (as is done in Chinese gongfu tea preparation).

I’m a Proud Father of Two

Well, it was bound to happen sooner or later.  I spread my seed and the result is the miracle of new life!

The seed was, of course, that which I had painstakingly gathered from the formerly hornet-infested of my two tea plants and documented in an earlier post.  Once the seed pods had popped open, I put them in water for a bit and discarded the floaters–I understand they rarely sprout, and if they do, the plants are typically weak and runty.  (I kind of like that word: runty)

Anyway, I gathered up the six “sinkers” and poked them down into a well wetted half-sand, half-potting mix concoction that I’d put in the bottom of a gallon-sized plastic zip seal bag.  I sealed up the bag and left it on the sill of one of our sunny south-facing windows.

Frankly, I expected to be disappointed.  After all, I tried to root cuttings of my favorite rose bush (it was here when we bought the house) and 100% of them dried out or rotted.  And I had at least twice as many chances with that one.  And the plant is more suited to this climate.  So I figured the seeds were gonners.  I gave ’em up for dead.

But a couple of days ago, my partner yelled “Hey, you’ve got to look at your tea plants!”  I thought to myself, “Oh great, what now?  Hornets again?”  But when I went to look, I saw he wasn’t pointing outside at the plants I knew about.  Instead, he was pointing at the “nursery” bag.  There were two shoots, unmistakably something from the Camellia genus.  (I bet he didn’t think he’d also be a proud father either…)  A 33% germination rate was more than I could have hoped for.

Well, I was overjoyed.  I think I danced around like a crazy man for a few minutes.  Or maybe more.  If I smoked, I would have given out cigars.  But I don’t, so I celebrated by boiling up some of the cousins of my new babies and had a nice cuppa instead.  (Ew.  I know, it didn’t occur to me until later how macabre that was…)

Anyway, I’ve just finished moving the “boys” out of the nursery and into their new rooms.  I think they’re big enough that they shouldn’t be sharing the same bag any more.

Stay tuned for more on the little rascals as they grow up.

Oh, and to underscore the geeky part of “Tea Geek,” I’ll end with an excerpt from the lyrics of the best song ever written for the end of a video game:

“This was a triumph.
I’m making a note here:
HUGE SUCCESS.
It’s hard to overstate
my satisfaction.”

An Insider’s Secret for Finding Affordable Tea

It’s been a while since I last posted, but I’ve known what I was going to post for weeks.  (I’ve been getting ready for the experimental Online Tea Tasting–if it works out well, keep an eye on the “Tea Geek Events” section at https://teageek.net/store/ ).

With the economy seeming to get worse every week, most people are looking for ways to economize.  But with tea there’s a “secret” I’ve learned during my years in the tea business that will no doubt seem very counter-intuitive.  However, I want to share it with you so that you can make better choices when buying tea.

You’re usually better off buying more expensive tea.

Here’s why:  Every tea business I’ve been involved with (including a wholesaler and two retailers, plus Tea Geek) does the same thing when it comes to marking up tea.  They have a selection of teas that are affordable and make up a healthy percentage of what people buy; they also have a selection of higher-end teas that meet with a good deal of resistance on the part of customers.  (Customers like inexpensive tea.)

However, generally speaking, it’s the higher-end teas that have the lowest markup.  That means that a higher percentage of your spending goes to good tea and not to the decor of the shop or the landlord or into the pockets of the owners.  (Not that you shouldn’t support tea shop owners–you should.  They still make money even on the expensive ones; if they don’t, they’re not very good at running a business.)

Here’s an example:  Say you’re interested in two teas.   The first tea costs $2.50 per ounce, while the second tea costs $5.00 per ounce.   You might naturally think that the $2.50 is a better deal–and it is, if you don’t consider what you actually get for that money.

Based on what I’ve seen in the industry, I might guess that the ounce of $2.50 tea cost the shop $0.50 or $0.75.  Some teas are even marked up 700-800%…meaning your ounce of tea might really be only $0.30 worth of tea to the wholesaler the shop bought it from.

On the other hand, the $5.00 ounce of tea may be marked up less than 100%.  You might get it for only an 80% markup.  This ounce of tea might be worth $2.75 to the wholesaler.

Now compare those.  By paying twice as much for an ounce of tea ($5.00 compared to $2.50), you’re really getting nine times the tea–not in weight, but in value ($2.75 vs. $0.30).

Granted, this is a hypothetical example and any specific situation is certain to be different in some aspect.  But the general rule seems to apply–more expensive teas have lower markup, and thus are a better buy when you consider what you get for your money.

(I should also note that I’m assuming you’re getting bulk loose tea.  Fancy packaging usually costs more than the tea it’s in, so assume an even higher markup if the tea is in some kind of exotic-looking box with high production values, or is in tea bags, etc.  It’s all stuff that encourages people to buy, but you don’t end up drinking the box–you drink the tea.)

Tea is an affordable luxury, and buying bulk loose high-end tea is usually a better proposition than cheaper tea, or expensive tea that’s been packaged.